Bawan Buti Weaves of Bihar 

Yarn : Photograph from Basawan Bigha, Nalanda, Bihar

Bawan Buti motifs : Photograph from Basawan Bigha, Nalanda

• Weaving is an age old occupation for communities at several districts in the state of Bihar, while at some of the districts it attained status of a matured industry (at Bhagalpur and Madhubani districts), and at other places, generally, it is confined as a home based enterprise and supplementary livelihood occupation along with agriculture and allied activities. 
• Weaving is generally a home-based enterprise; women are generally involved into pre-weaving/pre-loom work such as warping, spinning, straightening and arranging yarn at loom, dyeing and finishing work. They are also involved into hand-crafted value addition work also.
•  The major weaving areas in the state are Bhagalpur, Rohtas, Gaya, Madhubani,Nalanda, Nawada, Katoria, Patna districts of the state. 
• Government of India(GoI) has supported two mega clusters in Bihar at Bhagalpur and Banka districts. The support is for integrated and holistic development of the handloom cluster for improving the product quality and increase trade thereby benefiting weavers and other value chain players. 
• Besides this GoI has also extended support to two Block level clusters at Nawada (Nawada district) and Dehri (Rohtas district). As per the guidelines, Central government has directed state government of Bihar to make provision for land for development of above said cluster. 
• The presence of weavers’ base in the state can be considered as an asset for emerging handloom and textile manufacturing units. With state government intervention, it can offer long term employment opportunities - such as pre and post loom functions, apparel making, and supply functions- for women and young female youth. 
•  Nalanda district is known for its Handicraft and Handloom clusters. The Handicraft cluster mainly produces earthen & plaster statues; the Handloom cluster has sarees, dress materials, home furnishing, dhoti, gamcha, and blankets as key produce. 
• Biharsharif town and nearby villages such as Basawan Bigha, Nepura, Malah Bigha, Uparanwa has weavers’ settlement which produce cotton handloom and silk dress materials. Bawan Buti patterned sarees and Buti (miniature motifs) cloths are said to be exclusive to Biharsharif. 
• It is said that in earlier times 52 motifs (so the name Bawan Buti) were woven in a saree and gifted to daughter at the time of her marriage among Buddhist follower families in Bihar. The Bawan Buti sarees and dress materials denoted nobility in ancient times. 
• Bawan Buti sarees are losing sheen in the state. For revival of the craft, it is important to give the weave a relaunch by design distinction, training, institutional linkages and other interventions. If promoted , the Bawan Buti weave has the quality and uniqueness and business potential to thrive and support livelihoods of weavers and other value chain players. 
• There have been limited efforts to re-position the image of the sarees to build consumer appreciation. No product positioning has been pursued based on the history and cultural identity associated with the product. For revival, it requires support for promoting hand woven hand-crafted Buddhism weave idea and take it to the next level. Also, the intervention should ensure that weaver benefits economically to continue it. 
• There is limited awareness and visibility of Bawan Buti sarees. It also requires digital marketing and acceptance / endorsement from Saree enthusiasts across the country. 
• Women are the backbone of weaving and a major contributor to the households engaged in weaving. Women play a major role in all pre-loom operations and take on labour-intensive activities related with Bawan Buti crafted sarees. They are also involved into weaving though not on a regular basis. With skills, training and design assistance they may contribute better in the areas of spinning and hand weaving. 
•  Under cluster development initiatives, women may be involved into taking up post weaving work such as finishing, stitching, value addition, supply which will provide them the opportunity for sustainable income. A cadre of women master weavers making signature design patterns and weaves may also be developed to promote villages under the cluster as ‘Bawan Buti Craft Village’. 
• State supported activities like run for supporting Bawan Buti weaves may be organised on National Handloom Day as part of promotion strategy. 
• Initiating strong digital campaign to promote the Bawan Buti weaves including – Bawan Buti Weaver’s Tale and campaigns such as Selfie with Bawan Buti Handloom and #iwearbawanbuti series on facebook , Instagram etc. I similar #iwearhandloom campaign was conducted sometime back. 
• Identification of eminent personalities to give support to the Bawan Buti craft by wearing them. 
• Further, Bawan Buti to be included as part of cultural diplomacy by state just like Madhubani painting.